R.M.S. Rangitiki
31st May 1946
Dear All,
I have decided that the best thing I can do is to write a little to you each day, then when we get to our first port of call, I’ll have a nice long letter to send off to you.
I sent you a very scrappy note from the ship the day we embarked - I'm sorry I hadn't time to go into any great detail, but there was a postman on board waiting for letters and I didn't want to risk missing him. Now that I have plenty of time, I can continue from where I left off on Wednesday.
When I finished off my first letter to you at Lyon's in London, Betty and I left her friends as we had to be back' at the hostel by 10 p.m., and on our way there, by previous arrangement, we met another couple of girls, who are both very nice and who have since completed a foursome with us. May Ferguson is over 30, comes from Greenock, and is going to Ashburton (South Island) to be married - she has been separated from her fiancé for 41/2 years, so you can guess her state of excitement. She is a very level-headed type of person, but has a marvellous dry sense of humour, and she more or less mothers the other two and me. Audrey Martell the forth member of our quartet, is 22, hails from Surrey, and is also going to South Island to be married. She is also very level-headed (in fact a bit tight-laced) and seems such older mentally than the rest of us though May could give her about 12 years. Perhaps I am boring you with all these details, but I do want to set your mind at rest as regards the company I have taken up with.
On the ship there are almost 900 passengers, the majority of the women being fiancées - we wives feel very much out of it in view of all the discussions about trousseaux and honeymoons, but after all, we've had our day! 'The men in N.Z. who are bringing fiancées out have to pay £150 for the passage, but as Ray told us, a maximum of £100 is refunded after the wedding takes place.
P2
After all that deviation, I’d better get back to my resume of events -------
We arrived at the hostel in good time – don’t raise your eyebrows in surprise, Daddy, for had I been on my own, I would never have made it. Up to now, I have been sating “hostel” which is the kindest word I can think of for it. Actually it seemed to be some sort of workhouse, and was in grounds sufficiently well guarded to suggest that attempted escape was not at all probable. Our quarters in this veritable paradise were scrupulously clean, but comfort was the term not used there – our beds were as hard as concrete, though fortunately none of us had cause to complain, as we didn’t feel much like sleeping. The Matron of this institution came in to call us at the ungodly hour of 6 a.m., but we were already dressed and waiting for whatever surprise packet was to be served for breakfast. Little did I think then that my early rising that morning was to be the beginning of a series of them.
Breakfast was horrible – we were given a huge sausage each, a most awful thing, and the bread was much darker than that at home. Buses were waiting for us while we struggled to show a little appreciation of the dish-water that was supposed to represent tea, and we were taken to St. Pancras where we got the special train for Tilbury, arriving there about 10.30 a.m. Passage tickets were issued to us, and we were then passed on to claim our baggage which was set out, in alphabetical order, in the dock-shed. I found mine easily, with labels a bit the worse for wear, but still sticking bravely. A Custom’s Official came round, and merely asked me if my stuff was all personal, marked it with a cross and signalled to a porter to take it aboard. Betty and I hung around the baggage room to make sure it did come safely, and were reassured when the baggage officer showed us precisely where it was going – though I think he felt like telling us where we should go.
Regardless of the fact that we had been warned to expect the trip to be austere, everything seemed to have been done to ensure our comfort on board. Betty and I are practically in the hold of the ship (how mammy would shudder) and are only a few…..
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doors away from each other. Im in a dormitory with eleven other girls – the fewest in any cabin. We have double-tier bunks but there are very comfortable, and I have been lucky enough to secure an upper berth which is less stuffy than the lower ones. I am also right at the door, and have plenty of pegs on which to hang my dresses – that should save some ironing. Although I am prejudiced, I am sure that our little cabin in the nicest of the lot, and the girls seem a very decent crowd.
Lunch was served at 12 – a most marvellous meal, to which we did full justice. Afterwards we dragged some deck-chairs up on deck and sat there watching the arrival of the second lot. There were a lot of relatives and friends at the dock, and the waving and shouting as we pulled out at 3.30 was quite touching. We quickly settled down to the routing onboard ship – meals are done in two sittings, and we have arranged to have the first sitting for everything, which means breakfast at 7.30, lunch 12 and dinner 6. The food is really wonderful – the bread is pure white, we have lots of fruit and fresh butter and our courses at lunch and dinner would make your eyes pop. I feel absolutely ashamed to sit down at a table so lavishly spread when I think of your rations at home.
I slept well last night, and was out with Betty for a walk on deck before 7 a.m. Can you imagine me? It certainly gave us an appetite for breakfast, but then we seem to be always hungry.
Most of our time is spent lazing about on deck. So far, it has been quite cold, though the sea has been completely calm.
No one seems to bother much about dress, though of course there are the inevitable few who seem to have an inexhaustible wardrobe, and change umpteen times a day, but these are in the minority, and slacks and sweaters seem to have precedence.
I have seem very little of Francis since we embarked, but I am not really sorry, as I am more than satisfied with the friends I have of my own choosing, and I know Daddy, who is usually particular, could find no fault in any of them. Betty is, of course, my particular pal, but the four of us get on…
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awfully well together – yes, Pop, they really are awfully nice girls.
The ship is beautifully done up, and the tables in the Dining Saloon – my favourite place, of course – are worth seeing with their array of silver and glasses. Surprisingly enough, the ship isn’t dry, and the drinks are sold ridiculously cheaply – a cherry brandy for instance costs 9d. Some of the women haven’t been long in sampling it, but our four stick faithfully to lime juice or tomato juice. Cigarettes cost 1/- for 25, and I am trying to stock in a few for Reg, as they are very difficult to get in N.Z.
We don’t have to do a thing for ourselves here – stewards make our beds and even draw our baths, so we couldn’t be better looked after in a hotel.
The sun has just come out now, and I am beginning to glory in this new experience, though I would enjoy it ever so much more if you were all here with me – let’s hope you’ll experience it one of these days.
Well, lunch is about to be served, so I guess I’d better go and feed the inner woman. Cheerio meantime.
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Friday, 31st – 7.45 p.m.
Here we go again – I do hope I am not drawing this out too much, but I feel that you will want to hear as much as possible about my voyage, and once I Have finished this, I think I shall be quite entitled to rest on my laurels for a while – Oh for a typewriter, though! If I am not careful I shall be having deboneous contraction, like Daddy.
We have been skirting the Bay of Biscay today, and I hear we cross the mouth at approx. 10 a.m. tomorrow. Gosh, the old tub is fairly heaving now – it makes writing very difficult so you must excuse the illegibility. Of course, the same applies all through.
P5
Quite a number of the passengers have gone down with sea-sickness. May included, but I feel on top of the world and am still eating like a horse. You know there’s a lot to be said for skinny folk after all.
Afternoon tea is now laid on each day at 3.30, but even that doesn’t manage to keep Betty and I going from one meal to another, and we have to revert to chocolate and biscuits. If I’m not fat after this, (with Yeast Tablets thrown in) I’ll give up in disgust.
The Dining Saloon was half empty at dinner, but it has the happy result of our helpings being larger than usual. It’s an ill-wind etc……
I’m turning in early tonight as this sea air certainly tiresome. In any case, the days seem a bit long at present but amusements will soon be organised, which should help a bit. I’ve already got quite a tan with being in the open so much, and with the heat we’ll be experiencing in a couple of weeks, I’ll probably be like a Maori by the time Reg sees me. No more to say now so cheerio again.
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Saturday, 1st June – 7.30 p.m.
I’ve set myself the difficult task of writing in bed, doubly difficult because the ship is pitching a lot. The loud-speakers are at the moment relaying a rendering of “One Fine Day” which is ironical to a degree! I feel rather sleepy, so please pardon any mistakes. Audrey and I paced the old deck at 7 a.m. and as Betty as well as May is now laid out, we have been doing what we could for them. We did manage to get Betty up on deck later in the afternoon, but May still felt too groggy to get up. We also took on the job of minding a couple of five-month old babies, whose mothers were really ill, so I feel quite justified in being in bed at this ridiculous hour.
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Very few of the passengers are still on their feet – thank goodness I have the Smith’s iron constitution.
The ship was stopped for about three hours today owing to engine trouble. I believe that is why the sailing date was altered, incidentally.
I had a letter from Reg today, addressed to the Tilbury Docks. It was posted at Melbourne, so he won’t have seen Aunt Nell after all, and I shan’t have the opportunity either, worse luck.
So much for now – my eyes are practically closing so I’ll have to give in.
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Monday, 3rd – 9.30 p.m.
This is a late night for me but I must add a bit to this before going to bed, or Daddy will be complaining about the brevity of the news. Not that I have much news to give mind you, but I can always blather a little and fill in a few more pages that way.
Our two invalids have now got over the worst and though they still can’t bear to brave the Dining Saloon, they have managed to stagger up on deck. It has been much milder today, probably a forecast of things to come, for we should soon be having quite hot weather. Going by this route, we are missing the terrific heat that Reg experienced and warned me about; but I think we have about two weeks of intense heat in the middle of the voyage, then it gets cold again when we near New Zealand.
Our watches have been retarded daily since we left, and it seems so queer to me to be listening at 3.45 p.m. to the 1 o’clock news from London.
I’m still getting up before 7 each morning, and can assure you that I am quite glad to turn in usually about 8 p.m. Tonight I am a bit later certainly – this is the first time I have been on deck when it is dark.
P7
This is an experience I wouldn’t have missed for anything, for though the days dragged a little at first, we are settling down more, and I for one am never tired of looking at the water, though it does seem strange to see it stretch for mile after mile without a glimmer of land.
I had intended writing a lot of letters during the trip, but I have come to conclusion that I’ll have to limit myself to one to you and one to reg. Letters will probably be posted from Panama, and the rate of exchange there is evidently drastic, so I doubt if I could afford to send many out of the £10 we were authorised to take. So far I haven’t had cause to cash any Travellers’ Cheques, so I don’t know how I stand about that, but I don’t think it is advisable to dig into these just now, so you’ll have to make my apologies to all concerned, especially Aunt Lens. I dread to think what this letter will cost, but whatever it is, it is worth it to give you some reassurance.
I will leave all letter-writing apart from this till I get to N.Z., so perhaps you could pass this along to Aunt Lens meantime and to anyone else you might be interested in my news – you know, a kind of circular letter. I only hope it reached you safely, for after such a prolific attempt, I’d hate to think of it lying at the bottom of the Pacific. I’ll be sending you a cable in a day or so, though of course I hardly mention that here as it will reach you much in advance of this letter. How is the old lady getting on without the teeth – I wish I could see her sitting opposite me at dinner here; she’d be so busy delving in that she’d forget to miss them.
Must get down to sleep again – how awful that sounds, as though I did nothing but eat and sleep. Certainly there’s more truth than fiction in that – still - - - -
Tuesday 4th – 9.30 p.m.
Im feeling most uncomfortable tonight through having just a little too much sun. At the moment I smell like a chemist’s shop, with all the creams I have had to use.
P8
Today has been simply glorious, and we have done nothing but lounge around on deck. We actually saw land today, the Azores. It was so marvellous to look at something solid for a change instead of nothing but ocean, and we also saw a couple of rowing-boats not far from us which reminded us that we were not completely out of touch with civilisation.
We reach Curacao (is that how it I spelt? My geography is and always has been simply appalling, as you know, in spite of your favourite remark “When Cathie was your age”!!!) in about nine days, but we shall only be stopping there for a few hours to re-fuel, and I’m pretty sure we shan’t be allowed ashore. The next port of call is Panama, and I am hoping we get ashore there, if for nothing else than to break the journey and give us a small change in the daily routine. Not that I am tired of having nothing to do – this life of idleness just suits me to a T. and Reg is going to have some job to get me back into harness again after five weeks of it.
It is again well past my bedtime, so I’d better ‘op it again – isn’t it funny how easily one can adopt oneself to anything, even respectable hours? Goodnight all.
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Thursday. 6th – 8 p.m.
HMS Rangitiki.
Latitude 32 22
Longitude 40 15. (mid Atlantic ocean)
I’m turning all nautical – I mentioned further back about the two babies we looked after one evening. As one of the mothers has her husband on board with her, we four sometimes keep an eye on the babies to give them a little time to themselves. The husband being a naval officer, informed that to head a letter properly, I should show the position of the ship. We four are with the family party now, having a conversation bordering on …….
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anything from politics to the merits of shaggy dog stories.
I had been hoping to send of this letter from Panama, but I hear now that there is no air mail service from there, so I have decided to keep on adding to this for the duration of the voyage, and send it air mail from N.Z. It should reach you just as quickly as that way than if I were to send it ordinary sea-mail from Panama. I’ll be sending off a cable to you tomorrow, so that you wont have to wait sp long without and word from me. In any case, my letter by the time it is ready to be posted, should be nice and long- I only hope that you wont be bored and think I have gone into unnecessary detail but I have the feeling that you will be quite interested to hear the small things that crop up from day to day – it is only these small things mark the difference in the days, really.
Last night we had a dance on deck. Of course the women by far outnumbered the men, but our crowd had a good time and managed to have as much, if not more, fun than most. It was really too warm for dancing, and the ship gave an occasional heave which made it difficult to keep ones balance, but that rather added novelty. The deck was very lovely – little fairy lights had been hung up all round the part set off for dancing, and flags waved gaily in the little breeze that we had. Tired though we were, we actually managed to stay up till 10 p.m. – late nights don’t seem to agree with us much. Remarkable though it may seem, I was up at my usual time, 6.30, and from then till dinner, we sat on deck, though well in the shade, for the sun is very strong and lots of the girls have already suffered as a result of too much sun-bathing.
Instead of our appetites diminishing in this hot weather, Betty and I are eating more than ever, and we have even increased our dinner by one course. Our table steward knows us by this time and usually gives us a glimpse of the menu, just a mere formality, then brings us all the courses possible, with sometimes as extra sweet. Shall I tell you what we had today? As you can’t say no, here goes.
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Breakfast – Stewed fruit, bacon and eggs (real and plural) rolls fresh butter and marmalade.
Lunch – Soup, chops potatoes and vegetables, baked apples and coffee.
Dinner – Soup, fish, roast pork with all its adornments, meringue and ice-cream (Betty and I had a double helping of that) coffee and oranges.
That of course doesn’t include the tomato juice and biscuits in the morning, or afternoon tea, buns and biscuits we had in the afternoon, with an odd bar of chocolate thrown in!! Don’t think I have turned into an absolute hog – it must be the sea air, but the funny thing is that my waist hasn’t gained even half and inch.
During the heat today, I wore that checked frock that Daddy made fun of, and everyone remarked on how nice it was – that’s one for you, Pop. Not bad, is it, considering it is the cheapest I have, or ever have had for that matter. Thought I’d mention it as Pop was so callous in his criticism.
I am quite tanned by this time, and feel 100% fit – just as it should be with all the good food, decent hours and plenty of fresh air.
Will have to leave this over again as our crowd are getting too hilarious for me to concentrate.
Love,
Cath.
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Monday. 10th – 8.30 p.m.
Though I haven’t written you for a few days, I haven’t very much to report, but I’ll do what I can.
I had a lovely surprise on Saturday in the shape of a ….
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wire from Reg authorising me to collect £10. He probably thought I would need it were we to get ashore anywhere, for I don’t expect he knows yet that we are going via Panama. Anyway, I got the money, and hope to have it intact at the end of the voyage.
The weather now is terribly hot, and I almost burned to a cinder. I think I must be looking better than I have ever done. We have discovered that sherry on board ship costs only 9d., so the four of us have got into the habit of having a glass each day before dinner. Formerly we stuck to tomato juice or lime, but these are watered so much that there is barely any flavour. Considering how good sherry is as a tonic, it would be a shame not to take advantage of the cheapness of it, and it gives us a rare old appetite.
On Saturday night we had a Victory Dance, and a special dinner was served. I a sending on the menu for you to see, and you can return it to me some time as I have various names written on it. The dance itself was quite good, but none of our crowd danced much as it was too hot. They really do try to do things well on this ship, I must say.
Yesterday was quite uneventful – the weather was even hotter, and we were lazier than usual, if such a thing is possible. One of the girls in my dormitory has with her a set of Monopoly, and se has told me I may borrow it any time I please, so I’m hoping to have a game tonight. It will probably make me feel very homesick when I think back on the games I used to have with Daddy and Una, and very occasionally Betty. We must be nearly 4000 miles away from home by now, and we expect to sight land today sometime. Another day or two and we should be at Curacao.
Thursday. 13th – 4 p.m.
Writing has become increasingly difficult since I last put pen to paper, owing to the lack of fresh items of news and the terrible heat which daily grows more intense. We do absolutely nothing all day but sit and ooze perspiration – worse is to come too, for we haven’t yet entered the Canal.
P12
Yesterday morning at 9 a.m. we arrived at Curacao. The ship was being refuelled, but we were given shore leave from 1030 till 5. I would have loved to have gone into town, which was seven miles away from the oil installations, but the rate of exchange was poor, and taxis to the town were costing about £2.5/-, so our big four decided it wasn’t worth it. We did, however, go ashore after lunch for a walk round, but there was absolutely nothing to see apart from a few natives, so we returned to the ship in time for afternoon tea. When the girls who had gone to town got back, Betty and I could have kicked ourselves for not risking it, for they had been able to buy some lovely things there which proved not to extortionate. To crown matters, I had a cable from Reg asking me to try and get some Max Factor lipsticks, which would have been easily procured there. However, we consoled ourselves with the thought of going ashore at Panama but even that has been hit on the head. We have been told that there is no fixed rate of exchange at Colon, the port we are visiting instead of Panama – we might get two dollars fifty to the pound, or we may even get less. Of course goods there may be correspondingly cheap, but it will cost us one dollar before we even set foot in Colon, So I guess we shan’t be going. I have plenty of money of course, but the other three only bought the £10 stipulated, and no Traveller’s Cheques, so they certainly can’t afford to lose much in exchange. Still, we’ll see what happens – in a way it does seem a shame not to take advantage of the chance of seeing all we can on the voyage, and this will be our last stop.
Last night we had quite a minor sensation on our deck – the ablutions, which are next our cabin were flooded, and the water was streaming along our corridor and even trickling into our cabin. We were all awakened at midnight by the sound of a couple of the crew baling the water out with buckets, and by 1230 everything was in order. It did at least cause a diversion, and the situation was made all the more ludicrous by one of the girls who was wandering around dressed in swim-suit and life-jacket!!!!
Betty will be pleased to know that we have been having frequent issues of chocolate on board, and lots of it…..
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has been Cadbury’s, the greater part been Carson’s. Tomorrow we are due a 1 lb box of “Golden Casket” – I think that is the name anyway.
Today has been absolutely stifling – Audrey passed right out with the heat – so Betty and I have decided to sleep on deck. We should be quite comfortable with three blankets and a couple of pillows, but won’t it be funny if we have a torrential downpour through the night? All our stewards have been staggering about today with black eyes, letting dishes galore full all over the dining saloon – poor lads, they do work hard, so no one can blame them for breaking out when they get the chance to go ashore.
I am going away to get out the Monopoly again, so will break off for the time being.
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Sunday. 16th – 4.30 p.m.
Well, we came, we saw, but I can’t honestly say that we conquered, Colon. We arrived there at 6.30 p.m. on Friday and Betty and I after all decided to go ashore. We stumped up the 5/- that was due for the landing permit, and set out with Mr. and Mrs. Love and Joan Kelly (parents of the two babies I have mentioned previously). The town was well lit up and most of the shops were still open – they seem to be open till 11 p.m. most evenings. The money exchange Bureau was giving 2 dollars 50 cents to the pound, and the banks not more than 2/30, but we found a man who gave us 3, so we didn’t do badly. I managed to get half a dozen Max Factor lipsticks for Reg, and searched for a cameo broach for his mother, but those I saw were very inferior though the prices were high enough – however, since I couldn’t find a good one I had to give up the idea. Goods are cheap enough here compared to home, but the rate of exchange makes it hopeless for us to buy much.
The ship was due to sail at 6 p.m. today, so we had all day yesterday to go round Colon. Betty, Audrey May and I set out after breakfast, but didn’t get much further than the…..
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Fruit Bazaar, where we loaded ourselves up with pineapples, bananas, oranges, apples and limes. Fruit is dirt cheap really, and we now have plenty to last us till the end of the voyage. When we got back to the ship we discovered that Mr Love had put our names down for a bus tour that had been arranged for us by the Americans. Altogether 60 passengers were lucky enough to have this opportunity of seeing Colon without melting into greasy spots in the attempt. Buses collected us at 1 o’clock and after driving for about an hour through the native quarter which was distinguishable by the amount of snow-white linen hung out to bleach, we pulled up at the big American club where we were to have refreshments. Betty and I made hogs of ourselves with banana splits and coca-cola, then discovered that we were to get everything free gratis and for nothing – we did feel ashamed of our greed then I also managed to get 300 Chesterfield cigarettes for Reg for 100 cents, whereas in the ships I would have had to pay 20 cents for a twenty packet. We had barely got back into the bus than we stopped at another club, this time for tea. It was delicious too – iced Russian tea and lovely sandwiches. From there we made our way back to the ship; after dinner Betty, Joan, Mr and Mrs Love and I set out to visit the Fruit Bazaar again. We were very glad to have Mr. Love with us, for most of the people we met, whether Yankee sailors or natives, seemed to have been made bolder by drink and walking through the streets alone wouldn’t have been pleasant. After the Loves had done some shopping, we went into a dive (it really wasn’t a bad place, but I can think of no other way in which to describe it.) There is a bar down one side of the room, and tables are placed all round a small dance floor. It costs nothing to go in, but one is supposed to buy a drink and for that, can stay as long as one likes. We didn’t stay there very long, as the babies had been left with Audrey and May.
Quite a number of the women had a pretty hectic time ashore with stewards from the ship, Yanks or coloured American servicemen. It seems pretty disgusting, I know, and the decent girls on board, who seem to be outnumbered, are wondering if the Rangitiki will have a reputation before it arrives in N.Z. It seems a pity that that there should always have to be a certain few in any crowd who spoil things for the remainder, but there it is.
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We set sail again at 6 a.m. this morning as per schedule, and we come part way through the Canal, but owing to trouble with the generator we are now stuck in a lake in the Canal Region. Rumours are going round that we were to have been longer at Colon, so that repairs could be carried out there, but that we have come on here to prevent anyone going ashore – perhaps it’s true and perhaps it isn’t, bit it’s a good idea anyway if it is going to save some of these women making fools of them-selves. No one seems to know how long we are likely to be here – it may be hours or if may be a few days. It is unbearably hot, especially as we get no breeze as we do when the ship is under way. Betty and I sleep on deck now every night, and that is certainly much better than melting in our stuffy cabins. I only hope these breakdowns (we have had six now, this one included) don’t make us late arriving at Wellington, but I can hardly see us reaching there on 5th July after all these hour’s delay. I’m keeping my fingers crossed anyway.
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Tuesday, 18th – 3 p.m. (Balboa)
Well, my forebodings weren’t too unreasonable after all. Here we are at Balboa, and here we stay for several days till the engines can be repaired properly.
I told you further back that we had reached Lake Gatun where we got stuck. We had arrived there about noon on the Sunday, and there we lay at anchor till 6 a.m. yesterday. The lake is a fresh water one constructed by the builders of the Canal – to reach it we had to go through the first three locks of the canal, thus rising to a height of 85 feet. At 6 a.m. yesterday, we set out again, and went through the remaining three locks of the canal to bring us back to sea-level again, but we had only been in the Pacific for six hours when we had to turn back to Balboa owing to serious engine trouble. We arrived here very early this morning, and are trying to get used to the idea of hanging around, cooling our heels for “several days” whatever that may entail. The rate of exchange here is worse than at Colon, but people won’t be….
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able to go ashore much anyway as most of them are practically broke by now. Francis was saying today that all her money is gone – she hasn’t enough left even to cable her husband for more. I’ll have to see if she will let me lend her enough for that, for I hate to see her in such a position. Thank the Lord I didn’t spend recklessly, for I still have my Traveller’s Cheques intact, and a few pounds left into the bargain. It is surprising how much money one can spend on a trip like this.
The poor babies are very irritable now – the heat seems to be getting everyone down a bit, and this set-back has done nothing to help. The unlucky engineers have had a hard time too, working twelve hours a day in the intolerably stuffy engine room, repairing parts that they know will give out again. Some of the women, I suppose, will be quite glad of our stay in Balboa, for the Yanks are more numerous than they were at Colon – already some very nasty remarks have been made about the women passengers en masse. One man on board was heard to remark that on arrival at New Zealand he was going to have a bit published in the papers exposing the conduct of the women, but after the dressing down he got for his remark, he climbed down a bit. Not that talk like that would worry me, for I wouldn’t value the opinion of anyone who judged the British girls en bloc, letting themselves be guided by general rumours, rather then judging individually.
I have just seen Francis – poor soul, she is down to her last penny, but I gave her a pound to enable her to cable. She hated taking it, but I hated more the thought on anyone from so near home being stony, and having no one from whom to get assistance. She was telling me that she hadn’t gone ashore at Colon because she was so short of money, and that she felt it very badly when she saw others bringing back fruit for their babies, when her little girl couldn’t have any. I’m afraid I broke her confidence and told the other three, with the result that we managed to rake up between us a pineapple, some bananas and oranges. Do you know, the look on her face gave us all a greater pleasure than eating the fruit ourselves would have done. I wish….
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we could have done more to help her, but I’m afraid there wasn’t any chance.
We are expecting the U.S.O here to run some sort of entertainment for us. The Americans out on a great show for us at Colon (we have to hand it to them when it comes to organising anything on such a scale) sp perhaps they will be able to brighten up our enforced visit to this port. Already we have heard rumours of dances, cinemas etc. which are free – I’ll take full advantage of the cinema shows, But I doubt if I could work up any energy for the dances in such sultry heat, stifling in spite of frequent heavy showers we have had. I simply can’t understand why Dorothy Lamour always sings about the marvellous tropical moon, seas and weather. The moon is no more romantic here than back home, the sea looks the same anywhere, and apart from the thermometer rising a bit higher, the weather isn’t so very different from what we had back home in dear old ‘Glesca’. I’ll think I’ll have to send a complaint to her sometime when I feel a bit cooler.
Some of this I have already told you in a letter I have written you, which I shall post tomorrow and which I hope will reach you in a fortnight. However I want to keep order in my journal, so re-iteration won’t harm you. Pity help Daddy if he sends me a scrappy 3-page letter in reply to this – I’ll strike him off my books.
So long for now – I’m keeping my fingers crossed that the several days doesn’t run into weeks!
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Wednesday, 19th – 8.30 a.m.
Still no definite word of when we are likely to leave – some rumours have it Saturday, and others that we a likely to be here for 3 weeks. How awful that would be.
Lots of the girls had a good time ashore last night with the Yanks – two of them especially, for they met a decent one who took them to his home and introduced them to his wife. They are to go there today for lunch and dinner, and have been….
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promised a tour of Panama by car. Betty and I wouldn’t mind meeting a couple like that, but I guess we wouldn’t be as lucky. We all (I mean our crowd) stayed on the ship and went to a cinema show instead. We will have to go into town today though, to post our letters – we’ll probably have a good look round the shops too, though we shan’t be able to buy anything. The purser at present has no money with which to change Traveller’s Cheques, so I’ve got to be careful with what I have left in ready cash. Still, since everyone is in the same boat (Metaphorically as well as literary) it isn’t important.
Betty and I are still sleeping on deck and we have now made friends with one of the little stewards who serves at table – he brings us a cup of tea at 6 every morning. I tell you, we have all home comforts here - !
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Friday, 28th June – 10.00 a.m.
It’s a long time since I wrote you, but Betty and I had such a wonderful time at Panama that we didn’t have much time in which to express our opinions of the place. We left there at 6 a.m. yesterday, so I’ll get down to it now and try to give you a detailed account of all that happened.
Never again will I ever say I don’t like Americans – they were wonderful to us at Balboa. They ran dances, cinema shows, and bus tours and put on variety shows on board ship for those with babies. Women with children were taken to American homes where they could have baths and wash clothes. However, Betty and I didn’t require anything organised, but I’d better start from last Wednesday, and give you all the news from then on.
Our four went into Panama City in the morning to get some money changed, and while there we had a look round the town. We would have gone in again after lunch but it was much too hot, so we stayed on ship till dinner. Betty and I were beginning by this time to get a little tired of Audrey and May (they seem to put such a dampening effect on everything) and we decided to go into the pictures by ourselves in the evening. We set out with Joan accompanying us at 7.30 and were wondering…..
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how we would get to the U.S.O. in time when a fellow came up to us and offered to drive us there. We gladly accepted, and got into his car – what a car! There is no gear-changing in it – gears change automatically, and he can get 108 miles an hour out of it (and frequently does). He had a friend with him called Roy – our benefactors name is Bill Kosan, born in Cada, resident in Chicago, but has been here for twelve years, age 35 and very kind.
They suggested that rather than go to the film show we should let them drive us round to see the various sights, and of course we jumped at the opportunity. First of all, we saw the Church of the Golden Altar – this altar is all of gold, and is simply wonderful. In the days of the pirate Henry Morgan (a Welshman) who came here for loot, it was covered in whitewash which caused it to escape notice. From there we went on to visit the ruins of the old Panama and then went round to see various beauty spots on the beach. We had a lovely evening, finishing up with a glass of fresh milk each at a curb-service bar – the first fresh milk I had tasted since we left home. Oh, I forgot, we also paid a very hurried visit to a beer-garden called El Rancho – I mention it because that was the first of many visits. It again costs nothing to go it, but you are expected to buy a drink, which need only be coca-cola at 15 cents or 9d. It is an open-air place, with a bar and little tables set out under trees illuminated by means of fairy lights. There is a good band and a floor in the centre for dancing, and the whole is surrounded by balustrades round which the cars are parked. It is open till well after midnight, for of course life doesn’t start here till late in the evening, and I’m afraid you may be shocked when I tell you of the hours we kept while in Balboa. That night though, we were back on ship by 11, as Joan had to see to the baby who had been left with May and Audrey. We rather worried as to what they would say when we told them about going driving, but they were nothing but envious.
Bill had asked us to go out driving in the car on the next evening, but the ship’s passengers had been invited to a dance at the Club Atlas, and our four had put our names down to go. Bill decided that he would go too, and arranged to collect us.
At 7.30 Thursday, Betty, Audrey, May and I met Bill, and……..
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before going to the Atlas Club we had to drive 90 miles out so that Bill could get a card from a friend of who is a member of the Club. I should have said the first place that the Club Atlas is one of the most exclusive places in Panama, and entry is by invitation of members only, but the management had invited all Rangitiki passengers to use it at any time. We arrived there at 9 p.m. though we got back from Bill’s friend much earlier than that, but the intervening time had been spent showing Audrey what we had already seen the previous evening. We very much enjoyed our evening, and got back to the ship at 1.15a.m. Audrey and May were trilled of course, and thought they had found a nice soft berth for the duration of their stay, but Bill had other ideas, and invited only Betty and me for the next evening. Apart from his not liking them he must have found it expensive to entertain four of us by himself – Roy hadn’t been able to come s he was working.
On Friday, Betty and I had a very full day – we went into the U.S.O. at Balboa to have a banana split and went round some of the shops in town. After lunch, we intended going to bed to have a few hours rest before meeting Bill and Roy, but things didn’t turn out like that, for just as were turning in, a Scots girl came up and asked Betty and me to go driving, The men who had offered the drive were two Scotsmen now working here and they drove the four of us (they stated that the invitation was for four Scots girls) all over Panama till dinner time. In spite of very heavy rain, we enjoyed it, especially since of the men came from Paisley and spoke with a very broad accent. Both were elderly and married, but in spite of that (or perhaps because of it) they told us that their cars were at our service when we cared to use them.
At 8 o’clock, Betty and I set out with Bill and Roy for the Club Atlas. Bill by this time had applied for membership so that he could take us there, for though we knew we wouldn’t be questioned, there was the chance that he wouldn’t be allowed in. While there, we met two friends of his, Mary McKewn and her boy-friend George (a Captain in the Air Corps). They joined us, which was a lucky break, for Betty and I happened to mention that we would love to fly, and before we knew where we were, it was all arranged. However, I’ll keep this in sequence. We…..
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left the Atlas to go to another beer-garden called the Balboa Gardens, then on to El Rancho, where we met another four of Bill’s friends, a married couple and a couple being married next morning, or that day I should say, for by this time it was after midnight. These two couples joined our crowd, and we all then went to Kelly’s Night Club to see the floor show. It wasn’t too good there, in spite of the fact that everyone who goes to Panama goes there, and the ten of us crowded into the car and returned to the Club Atlas, then onto El Rancho again. By this time it was 3 a.m., but none of us felt the least bit tired so Mary invited us all to her flat for breakfast. The last two couples we had met decided that they would return to their hotel to get some sleep for the wedding, but the rest of us went on to Mary’s where we had bacon and eggs, toast and delicious coffee. I don’t think I have ever enjoyed a meal so much, though it made us more wide awake than ever. Mary was terribly kind to us and is a most charming person. We left there at 4.30 on Saturday morning and got back to the ship at 5. It wasn’t worth while going to bed then, so we sat in deck chair till breakfast time.
And now for our plane trip. There is so much to explain about it that I hardly know where to start. Let me say first that meeting Bill was the best thing that could have happened to Betty and me – he knew so many people and had a great deal of influence, so that he could manage practically anything. The U.S Army Air Base, which was our destination, is 70 miles away by road. Each week-end a special plane is run to take friends and fiancées of the men there to visit them. About 20-30 girls go each week, stay at a special cottage there for them, and return on the Sunday afternoon. All are properly chaperoned of course, the wife of one of the officers acting in this capacity. Don’t ask me how Betty and I managed to go when there must have been hundreds of American girls waiting their turn – as I said, Bill has influence, and everything was arranged without a hitch.
We met Mary at 12.30 and she took us by taxi to the air-field, where she put us in the charge of some of the girls there. We got into a C.54 at 1.30, and arrived at the Rio Hato, the Air Base, at about 2.10. There, our first difficulty arose – George has said he would meet the plane, but he wasn’t there, and we felt pretty lost as we didn’t know the ropes. The chaperone came up to us and explained that the other girls were the guests…
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of enlisted men, and had to keep to a programme specially arranged for them, whereas we were officers’ guests and had complete freedom. Officer’s guests have a special cottage – honestly, although Americans are so democratic, in this place social distinction is very pronounced. As we were the only two girls there invited by an officer, she was loathe to put us into the special cottage by ourselves, but in the end was forced to, as there weren’t enough beds in the other. Betty and I were pleased, of course – we didn’t really fancy mucking in with the other and keeping to their very strict time-table. However, we got settled in – a cottage to ourselves with showers and even a telephone, no to mention numerous rooms from which to choose. There we waited till George came to explain the routine, but to our surprise, the phone rang, and on answering I found it was Bill who hadn’t expected to get there till 6.30 but who had crammed a day’s work into five hours as he knew we might feel a bit lost. Roy wasn’t there, of course – in fact from then on Bill, Betty and I were a constant three-some. I think Bill knew that we might be misunderstood if we went out in a foursome, so poor old Roy got the kick.
He collected us at 3.35 and drove us round to visit various officer friends if his and their wives, who lived in lovely little Spanish-type bungalows. All of them were very good to us – they were so interested to hear us talk and from what Bill told us later, we gave them not too bad an impression of Scots girls. Of course, word soon went round the camp about us being there, and our phone was never quiet – everyone wanted to hear us talk! We had dinner at the Officer’s Club – a think steak of all things. After that, we attended the dance there – it was a “come as you please” affair and Betty and I didn’t bother to change from our slacks and blouses. I can’t tell you how kind everyone was to us – they made us feel absolutely at home. Bill especially was goodness itself – it must have cost him a terrible amount of money to entertain the two of us all the time but he seemed really glad to do it. The dance was good – everyone was so free and easy, even the Colonel and his wife who made a lot of us.
We didn’t get to bed till 5 on Sunday morning, but don’t think we were tired. I guess excitement kept us going.
Bill rang us at 9 am Sunday morning to go driving and we had an easy morning. Lunch at the club was marvellous – roast….
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chicken, sweet potatoes and asparagus. In the afternoon, we drove to a little place called La Venta, and sat on the beach there till 5 o’clock. Rio Hato is a beautiful spot, and the beach is worth writing about, although I couldn’t attempt to describe it.
At 6 o’clock we left, after saying our farewells. We would like to have stayed another night, but when we had set out we had half-expected to leave on Monday, and we, after telling the Captain of the ship where we were going, had said we would be back on Sunday evening. Bill couldn’t fly back, as he is a civilian, so Betty and I decided to motor back with him and visit some of the native villages on the way. Believe it or not, but I drove that car 30 miles of the way without any help. It did seem funny to always be on the right side of the road, but I did quite well considering it was my first attempt.
The evening finished off with bacon and eggs at the Balboa Club House, and we got aboard ship at 12 o’clock after a glorious weekend. The life here is so entirely different from what it is back home – I love it.
The ship was due to sail on Wednesday, but from Monday on we just repeated what we had done before. Monday evening, Bill took us to El Rancho to dance and drove us round a bit. On Tuesday, he had got some time off and took us shopping in Panama in the morning. We got back to the ship at 2 p.m. loaded with fruit which Bill had bargained for at the market. We were having a farewell party that night, and when Bill came for us, he had bought us chocolates, biscuits, 200 American cigarettes each, and most important of all, orchids for each of us. They did cause quite a stir too – I felt silly with mine on. I kept thinking of the saying that few women wear orchids – that the orchids usually wear them. Though I felt as though I were attached to a tailing plant, they were very much admired – I guess it did something to our ego.
We went to the Club Atlas at first, then on to El Rancho, and got back to the ship about 1 a.m. We didn’t sail on Wednesday so we phoned Bill that day as arranged, and he said he would pick us up at 6 to visit Mary. I’m glad we saw her again before we left – she gave us a lovely little handkerchief each and asked us to write to her when we got to N.Z. After we left her, the three….
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of us went to El Rancho and stayed there dancing till the wee sma’ hours, finishing up with breakfast at the Balboa Gardens at 3 a.m. We said goodbye to Bill and boarded the ship – we sailed at 6.30 a.m yesterday.
 Ruins of Catherdral |
 Air Terminal - Balboa C.Z. |
 Panama Canal Locks |
 Altar of St Joseph Church in Panama City |
 Balboa Statue Panama |
 Ruins of Old Panama |
 Residential District of Colon R.P. |
 Water Front Panama City |
 Statue of Columbus Colon, Rep of Panama |
 Adminsitration Building Balboa Canal Zone |
 National Palace Panama City R.P. |
I can’t say how kind Bill was to us, and he was an absolute gentleman. Betty and I feel we have made a real friend, and we are hoping he will be able to visit us in N.Z. one of these days, for we would both like to replay his kindness.
Our friendship with Audrey and May has been split up. After the evening they came with us, they haven’t spoken to us at all – I expect they are mad at not being asked again and are jealous of the marvellous time we had. They have passed quite a number of nasty cracks about us, but I have learned that they are under the impression that we were paired off with Bill and Roy. We haven’t bothered to tell them, that after the Friday, when there were another six people with us, Bill, Betty and I were always together. Goodness knows what they think of us going away for the week-end, but anyone who knows Panama knows about the Rio Hato scheme, and that girls going there, are properly chaperoned. The Captain himself was quite thrilled at our going there, and he wouldn’t have been so ready to give his permission had he thought it wasn’t proper. However, they can say and do what they like – Betty and I are more than pleased to be on our own, and usually Joan joins us at some time during the day and evening.
(M.V. Rangitiki Captain, E Holland C.B.E., wrote to the peope of Panama thanking them for their hospitality... see here)
We expect now to dock at on 18th July, so long as the engines hold out. Time alone will tell. I won’t have much to write about from now till I arrive. We are back in the same old rut as we were before, made even more uninteresting after the thrill of seeing Panama. I will need to add a little to my letter before posting it, but meantime, I want to ask you again to pass this around to anyone who is interested, as I shan’t write about the voyage again – I just couldn’t bring myself to go over all this ground again.
One person I would like you to send it to is Yvonne, and you can ask her to return it after she has read it. Betty could perhaps enclose a note with it explaining that I’ll be writing her as soon as possible after arrival. Her address is….
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Miss Y. M. Ebbutt,
6 Coillesdene Drive,
Joppa, Midlothian.
I have been scribbling everything down frantically, but I hope to be able to type it on arrival, then perhaps I can work it into less pages that it has taken me to write.
So long for now
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Thursday, 4th July. 9.00 p.m.
It is a week since we left Panama – a fortnight today and I will be seeing Reg. These last few days have been really glorious and through sitting in the sun after washing my hair, I have developed into a real blonde.
Betty and I have regained our appetites – I have reached a very satisfactory arrangement with our table steward. I iron his white jackets for him, and in return I get three helpings instead of two as formerly. Honestly, I have never eaten so much in my life.
Everything that could happen on this ship has now happened. Two girls going out to be married to N.Z. boys met and got married to Americans in Panama. One woman, married to a N.Z. man, and with one little girl, has fallen for one of the officers on the ship, and is putting in for a divorce to get married to him. Last night was the climax – a baby was born!!! Believe it or not, but the woman hadn’t expected it – she is about 45/50, and on visiting her doctor had put her condition down to change of life – the woman realised this morning how wrong he was……
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She wasn’t prepared of course, and an SOS has gone out for baby clothes and napkins. We are having a marvellous lot of excitement aren’t we?
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Friday. 12th – 0900.
Well, it wont be long now, especially since we lose a day before getting to N.Z. We go the bed Tuesday, and wake up Thursday – at Wellington. These last two days have been pretty rough, as we ran into a storm, but it is much calmer today – let’s hope it keeps up as we don’t want to be sea-sick before arriving. Quite a number of passengers went down through the storm, but Betty and I were still kicking – perhaps even rougher weather won’t affect us now. Nothing much has happened since I last added to my letter, except that another baby, this time expected, was born, the same evening as the first. Nothing could surprise us now.
We ran a concert on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, and it went over really well. I was landed for laying for playing for some of the numbers and I think I can safely say that we had more fun behind the scenes that the audience had. Seven fellows have a rendering of the Can-Can. They were really funny. They wore woman’s sun tops (padded of course) skirts made from toilet paper, turbans with jewellery in and huge shoes with paper flowers at the toes. The make-up was lavish and they really were funny, even without the clumsiness of their dance to add ridicule.
We are still having film shows and dances but it is too cold to stay out on deck to attend these. We are never satisfied, are …….
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we? We complain because we felt too warm at Panama, and now we are grumbling about the cold – human nature, I guess.
Haven’t any more news now, so I’ll leave this till I land. I don’t expect there will be anything else cropping up that will be worth writing about, and in any case, I have reached page 46, so I’d better wait till I arrive before completing this.
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Sunday, 28th July – 9 p.m.
Have managed to type this at Freda’s so will get it posted in a day or so. I won’t tell you here that has happened since I arrived, as I’ll be writing you fairly often. Please excuse the bad typing – I am trying to get this done as quickly as possible, and I have to sacrifice accuracy for speed, as you can’t manage both.
One thing I ought to tell you about – one married woman on the ship received a cable from her husband the morning we docked saying “Marriage a mistake – not meeting ship.” She tossed her passport overboard, and declared her intention of returning with the Rangitiki in approx 3 weeks. Rather hard lines, (sic) isn’t it?
Will be writing you again soon, but meantime, I can assure you that I like this place, and don’t feel homesick, though I do miss you all an awful lot.
Very dear love to you all,
Cath
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